Checkpoint 300

Checkpoint 300 is the name given to the checkpoint at the entrance to Bethlehem. Everyone who wishes to enter must show their legal papers - for foreigners their passport - for locals their ID cards which state whether they are Palestinian or Israeli. A simple ID is not enough to go in and out of their town - permits are required to go specific places. Some people have special permits - like "religious worker" that allows them to attend work at their Christians place of work.

Having been in and out of Bethlehem all week, since it is in walking distance of our accommodation - each experience was pretty similar. I was largely ignored, as an obvious foreigner, and in some cases did not even get my passport out of my bag. The times of day I had been in and out were quiet and there was rarely more than a handful of other people in the building. Today, as we were leaving Bethlehem, after having lunch with friends, there was a long queue of people waiting to get out of the checkpoint. The line moved slowly and unpredictably sometimes allowing a few people through and sometimes no movement for a while. What had previously taken 5 minutes from start to finish took us 50 minutes. This is still fast for the many Palestinians who wait sometimes hours and sometimes are not allowed through at all.

In order to leave Bethlehem on foot first you walk up a fenced walkway, along the side of the 8 metre wall (twice the height of the Berlin wall) and then through a 2 metre turnstile. At this point you are caged in from all sides, another turnstile ahead, controlled by the duty soldier or security officer. Then walking across an enclosure, which I can only liken to a prison exercise ground, you enter another enclosed walkway that takes you into a large shed.

Inside the large shed it is not particularly clear where you should go, but the crowds suggest you should stand in line. A zig-zag line stops people from pushing in too much and allows for only one person width of the line. It reminded me of how animals are channeled when they are waiting for things, so they can't kick or move any way but forward. The next full height turnstile has a green and red light above it and it will only turn when the light shows green. Often only one person will be allowed through at a time, forcing families to be separated. Beyond this, there is an x-ray machine where all your possession much be placed for inspection - very similar to airport security. Next you walk through a metal detector which is set so sensitively it goes off with every person who goes through it. At a whim those on duty can search anyone they like. This is rarely anyone but Palestinians.

Only one more check to go, where if you are foreign you wave your passport and walk through another turnstile. If you are Palestinian your hand gets scanned (again similar technology as is used in prisons like Barlinnie in Glasgow - the highest security prison in Scotland) and your papers are inspected. At any of these points Palestinians may be sent back.

One last prison like walkway and you are out of the West Bank and officially in Israel. One Palestinian said to us earlier in the week "You can taste the free air", when she got through the checkpoint.